Feel spirited away in this decommissioned gold mining mountain town of Ruifang District in New Taipei City, Jiufen which was originally built by the Japanese and with an interesting history.
Many visitors traveling to Jiufen ask the same question: What does the name Jiufen mean and originate from? During the Qing Dynasty, only nine families lived in this village. Each time the villagers always purchase nine items (Jiufen). During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan in 1893, the town rapidly developed as the center of gold mining activities. But once mining activities declined in the 70s, the town fell into obscurity. In the 1990s, the Taiwanese historical drama A City of Sadness – directed by famed director Hou Hsiao-Hsien – was filmed in the town, putting Jiufen back on the map. Now, Jiufen’s wealth lies in its atmospheric lantern-strung lanes lined with retro cafés and charming tea houses, featuring a quaint mix of Japanese and Chinese-style architecture, along with breathtaking views of the ocean.
Day vs Night, When to Go?
Jiufen Old Street is crowded with small food stalls, tea houses, souvenir shops, and pottery stores, be free to drop their souls in the fog all over the place that bring the magical beauty of this land. Discovering Jiufen, there are a lot of things to do and experience in this attractive village. Apart from admiring landscape view of mountainous area and epic ocean scenery of Keelung outer sea before night, savouring a cup of tea at Jiufen A Mei Teahouse, in a gorgeous and well-preserved wooden structure with fantastic scenery, and check out the close-by Shengping Theater, Taiwan’s first film theatres, constructed in 1934 by the Japanese. Besides, you’ll stumb up this Sculptor Wu’s Ghost Mask Museum of over 1,500 self-made creepy but colorful collections of ghost masks, yet very interesting detour from the tourist-filled alleys of Jiufen. For the ladies, if you like dressing up, you have an entire day to rent the traditional Qipao or a Cheongsam in Qipao Rental Shop and experience what it’s like to walk around Jiufen Old Street like a local.
Jiufen is a haven for Taiwanese cuisine. From small mom and pop restaurants that have been there for decades to an overwhelming plethora of street snacks, you could spend a whole day taste-testing various Taiwanese foods. Yu Wan Bo Zai always all time favourite for your lunch, the combo set comes with a bowl of silky smooth noodles and bouncy balls of fish paste that are freshly beaten daily. Try the Jiufen chewy taro balls from Ah Gan Yi in flavours like Chinese yam, green tea and sesame; glutinous rice cakes from Ah Lan Hakka Glutinous Rice Cake with a variety of fillings, and the either hate it or love it delicacy, stinky tofu. Peanut ice cream rolls from Ah Zhu Peanut Ice Cream is yet another snack you must have in Jiufen, shaved peanut bits are ground off a gigantic block of compressed peanuts before being placed two scoops of ice cream and Chinese parsley then skilfully wrapped it up like a popiah. “It looks like unusual dish, but it’s delicious!” said foreigner. You'll taste the heart of Taiwan in this village's streets!
Enduring the cloudless, merciless summer day finally brought its reward: the sun retreated behind the mountains, casting its last rays onto an extravagant blue twilight. Once the sun has set and the crowds have departed, Jiufen becomes the town it once was, and still claims to be: a place of with red lanterns illuminating the narrow streets, cosy traditional tea shops, and a slower pace of life.
It is always worth spending a night over here to experience Jiufen slow paced life. Exploring mysterious tunnels all throughout Jiufen that is reminiscent of the movie Spirited Away after dark, leading you to different viewpoints of the town, almost miraculously. Despite the fact that it doesn’t transfer you to any spirit realm, it does lead to a striking area where you can enjoy the buildings in Jiufen along the natural landscape. However, Jiufen had tunnels galore, and it deserved exploration and discovery, filling your journey with unexpected surprises.
Above all else, Jiufen's charm lies in its embodiment of a simpler time. When you visit, take your time. Relax, wander the streets at a leisurely pace, and adopt an unrushed and unruffled attitude.
